Wednesday, November 11, 2026

Bayt Lisbōnā

 

The exterior wall of the Damascene house is always of rough mud, of a plain drab color, and without windows, or with very small ones. The entrance from the street is through a most unpretending door, opening into a dark and narrow hall, with a projection or screen at the farther end, which shuts off the view into the main court. That court has no roof, and is nearly square, and in some of the larger houses is more than one hundred and fifty feet long. The walls of the court are constructed of red and white limestone or black basalt, in alternate layers, to a height of about fifteen feet, and finished with ordinary masonry. It is paved with large slabs of white marble, bordered with narrow strips of black slate, and sometimes arranged in pretty patterns and complicated figures, especially in front of the chamber doors or around the fountains. In the middle of the court is a large tank or fountain, generally octagonal in shape, and raised two feet or more above the pavement. It is cased in marble, and the sides and panels are profusely ornamented with intricate designs in slate and limestone of various colors. The fountain is kept full of clear, sparkling water from the never-failing "river of Damascus," by one or more bronze spouts and central jets. Upon it choice flowers are arranged in large pots, and near it are fruit-trees, rose-bushes, and jessamine-vines, which impart an attractive and pleasing aspect, and their fragrance pervades the entire court and penetrates into every room in the house.

On the south side of the court, and facing the fountain, is an open līwān, with a lofty arch in front to support the roof. The pavement of the līwān is of marble, with designs in mosaic of various shapes and sizes, and of different colors. Along three sides of it are divans with marble fronts; they are generally a foot and a half high, and the quilted mattresses, together with the numerous cushions piled upon them, are covered with Damascus silk of brilliant color and rich texture. The walls of the līwān are built up for about ten feet, with alternate layers of red and white limestone or black basalt, and above that there is an elaborate display of fresco or mosaic work, in large panels and patterns. On either side of the līwān there are spacious and lofty rooms, sometimes over thirty feet high. They are entered by doors leading from the līwān, and one of them at least is furnished and decorated in a more elaborate style and design than the līwān. Frequently there is a marble fountain in the centre of the room, and the walls display a profuse ornamentation in marble, stucco, mosaic work, and fresco painting.

The roof is sustained by long, slender beams of poplar, polished and painted in bright colors. In some of the mansions of the wealthy, those beams are covered with gilt, and farther ornamented with small pieces of mirrors and mother-of-pearl, inlaid in the wood, which add to the brilliancy of the apartment. The panels in the ceiling, in the doors, the window-frames, and shutters are similarly ornamented, and, in addition, are composed of many small pieces of polished wood of different kinds, arranged in curious figures—over fifty in one panel. The apartments for the use of the family and those reserved for domestic purposes, kitchen, bath, and servants' rooms, are arranged around the court, on this side or that, according to the comfort and convenience of the inmates of the establishment. The Moslems have an interior and entirely distinct and separate house, sometimes more profusely ornamented and elegantly furnished, for their harem, the entrance to which is from the court of the main dwelling.


William McClure Thomson, The Land and the Book, Vol. III, Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. Harper1886 (p. 389-391).

نحت امرأةٍ على واجهة قصر الحير الداخليّة

 

عُلِّقَت بعضُ منحوتات واجهة القصر الداخليّة (فارسُ وفَرَس، جالسٌ على العرش، ونسرُ باسط الجناحَيْن) بين النوافذ التي أُعِيدَ تركيبُها على الطابق العلوي لرواق القصر الشرقي بعد بنائِهِ في المتحف كما رأينا. اقتَصَر المسؤولون على عَرضِ بعضِ القطع، وتركوا البعض الآخر في المستودَع بانتظار "دراساتٍ وافية وواسعة عن أمكنَتِها" (عبد الحقّ صفحة ٤٥). يترتّبُ على ذلك أنّ اللقى الأخيرة، ومنها النحت في الصورة المْلْحَقَة، لم تكن في متناول زوّار المتحف عام ١٩٥١؛ ولا علم لي بمكانِها اليوم. 


الصورةُ لنحتٍ بارزٍ لامرأةٍ، ارتفاعُ ما تبقّى منه سبعة أعشار المتر، وبروزُهُ ١٧ من عشيرات المتر. الرأسُ والعنقُ مبتوران، وكذلك الطرف العلوي الأيسر فوق المرفق. الطرفان السفليّان مفقودان تحت الركبتين. هناك عباءةٌ ظاهرةٌ وراء الكتف والذراع الأيسر. الثديان مشوّهان. تحمل اليدُ اليمنى غرضاً أشبه بالقارورة.  



سليم عادل عبد الحقّ في الحوليّات الأثريّة السوريّة، الجزء الأوّل، المجلّد الأوّل ١٩٥١. إعادة تشييد جناح قصر الحير الغربي في متحف دمشق (صفحة ٥-٥٧). 

Deux fresques ʾUmayyādes

 

Ces fresques ont été découvertes en novembre 1936 au cours de la fouille du château ʾUmayyāde de Qaṣr al-Ḥayr al-Ġarbī en Palmyrène. Elles ornaient le sol de deux grandes pièces rectangulaires (XIV et XIX), où nous reconnûmes les cages d'escalier du château. 

Les deux fresques sont très bien conservées en haut (c'est-à-dire au fond des deux pièces), et au centre. Elles sont dégradées dans le bas, et il n'y a là rien que de naturel, car c'est à cette extrémité des pièces que se trouvait le départ de l'escalier. Elles sont aujourd'hui conservées au Musée National Syrien, à Damas, où elles ont été transportées en 1937, après que leur enlèvement eût été mené à bien par les soins patients et habiles de M. Henry Pearson, architecte.


Daniel Schlumberger. Deux fresques omeyyades. Syria. Archéologie, Art et histoire.  Année 1946  25-1 (pp. 86-102). 

Piers and Arches

 

We are now in the large open court enclosed by the walls of the mosque. Including the colonnade on the east, north, and west, the court is about four hundred and fifty feet long, and one hundred and eighty feet broad. The columns in the northern colonnade are encased in masonry, and support twenty-four horseshoe arches, upon which rests an upper tier of fifty smaller round arches. The sides of the masonry piers are ornamented with various patterns in panelwork, and elaborate designs of rich arabesque adorn the capitals, while the arches are painted on the inside in alternate black and white irregular squares, presenting a striking and checkered appearance. The upper tier of arches is composed entirely of layers of black and white limestone, and the combined effect of those varied designs and different colors in the colonnade gives it an appearance eminently Oriental and attractive. More than half the number of Corinthian columns remain exposed to view in the eastern and western colonnades, and the arches in the upper tier are supported by smaller columns of the same order.


William McClure Thomson, The Land and the Book, Vol. III, Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. Harper1886 (p. 382-385).

Tuesday, November 10, 2026

Tomb of Saint John the Baptist

 

Almost the entire marble floor is covered with carpets of different sizes and various patterns, upon which the "true believers" perform their daily prayers. Looking eastward along these aisles, the most striking objects are those great dome-shaped frames with their hundreds of lamps, and the numerous chandeliers, suspended by long chains from the arches and lofty roof. The minbar, or pulpit, and the miḥrāb, or praying-niches, in the south wall, with their slender marble columns, are quite attractive and suggestive. But the most sacred spot in the mosque is the cave above which is the shrine, or Maqām as-Sayyid Yaḥyā. The maqām is between the third and fourth column, to the right of the dome, and near the south wall of the eastern part of the mosque. It is enclosed by a quadrangular wall, built of five courses of polished marble, upon which stand twenty square columns, six on each side, and four at either end, counting the corner columns twice. The cornice is elaborately ornamented by extracts from the Qurʾān, in large letters, and above it rises a ribbed dome, resting upon an octagonal structure, and surmounted by a gilded crescent. The height of the dome is about twenty-five feet, and the head of John the Baptist is believed by the Moslems to be still preserved beneath that maqām. Like those of many Christian saints, the remains of the Baptist have been generously distributed amongst several favored mosques. His head is here, his heart is claimed in Aleppo, and one of his fingers is said to be in a mosque at Beirut.

The association of Biblical and even Christian celebrities with Muḥammedan shrines in and around this most Moslem of cities appears to be one of the strange features of Damascus.


William McClure Thomson, The Land and the Book, Vol. III, Lebanon, Damascus, and Beyond Jordan. Harper1886 (p. 382-383).

ردهة طابق قصر الحير الغربي المُسْتَحْدَثَة

 

ألُحِقَت هذه القاعة برواق الطابق العلوي بعد إعادة بناء بوّابة قصر الحير الغربي والأجنحة حَوْلَها في متحف دمشق الوطني. استُعْمِلَت هذه الردهة صالةً عَرْضٍ لعددٍ من لُقى القصر ممّا سيأتي ذِكْرُهُ بمزيدٍ من التفصيلٍ كما يلي:


- الجدار الشرقي: لوحة جداريّة ملوّنة كبيرة لموسيقيّيَن وفارس يطاردُ غزالاً.

- الجدار الغربي: لوحة جداريّة ملوّنة كبيرة أبرز ما فيها غايا، الإلهة التي تجسِّدُ الأمَّ الأرض. 

- الجدار الجنوبي: قطع من تمثال جصّي، يُعْتَقَد أنّهُ لهشام بن عبد الملك، باني القصر. 

- الجدار الشمالي: عددٌ من النوافذ الجصيّة المعقودة والمخرّمة. 

- وسط القاعة: عيّناتٌ عديدة من السياجات balustrades، وتيجان الأعمدة الصغيرة منها والكبيرة، وكُسَر من لوحاتٍ جداريّة للخدم من الجنسين، وزخارف نباتيّة. تشدّ الانتباهَ خصوصاً لوحةٌ لشخصٍ يعتمرُ غطاءَ رأسٍ إفرنجيّ الطراز، يحتمَلُ أنّهُ يمثّل أحد الأسرى. 



  محمّد أبو الفرج العشّ وعدنان الجندي وبشير زهدي. المتحف الوطني بدمشق، دليل مختصر. المديريّة العامّة للآثار والمتاحف ١٩٦٩. 

الصورة عن سليم عادل عبد الحقّ في الحوليّات الأثريّة السوريّة، الجزء الأوّل، المجلّد الأوّل ١٩٥١. إعادة تشييد جناح قصر الحير الغربي في متحف دمشق (صفحة ٥-٥٧). 


Catalogue du Musée National de Damas. publication de la Direction Générale des Antiquités et des Musées. Damas 1969. 

Qaṣr al-Ḥayr al-Ġarbī : la grande salle

Monday, November 9, 2026

Ǧāmiʿ as-Sayyid Yaḥyā

 

This is the most important historical site in Damascus, and may have been originally an open space, the centre of which was occupied by an altar dedicated to the idol-god of the Syrians long before Abraham passed this way, to go into the land of Canaan."Here, no doubt, was the house of Rimmon," probably erected by one of those Ben-hadads who reigned in this city from the time of David, and which is referred to by Naaman in his interview with Elisha (2 Kings V. 17, 18). And here Ahaz the king of Judah may have seen that altar when he came to Damascus, ''the pattern" of which he sent to Urijah the priest in Jerusalem (2 Kings XVI:11). Several hundred years later, when the Greeks and the Romans were here, a heathen temple stood upon this spot, with its altars and courts, its colonnades and triumphal arches. It must have occupied an area nearly equal in size to that of the present Ḥaram aš-Šarīf, in Jerusalem. After Christianity became the established religion of the Byzantine Empire, the temple was converted into a church and dedicated to St. John the Baptist, and the Moslems believe that his head still remains in the cave where it is said to have been placed by the monks of that church.

 
When Damascus fell into the hands of the Muhammedans, in the seventh century, this church was occupied by Moslems and Christians, the former taking possession of the eastern part, while the latter were allowed the use of the western portion. That division, which indicated the comparative toleration of Muhammedanism at that period, did not continue long, and the Christians were not only expelled from their place of worship, but they were forbidden to enter the enclosure of the sacred edifice. From thenceforth the entire structure was transformed into Ǧāmiʿ as-Sayyid Yaḥyā, or the Mosque of St. John, which name it still bears. The church was in the form of a basilica, and the space between the enclosing walls of the quadrangle upon which it stood was about five hundred feet long and three hundred and fifty feet broad. It occupied nearly one half of that space, on the south side of the quadrangle, and but few changes have been made in the interior plan since it was transformed into a mosque. The open court on the north occupies much the largest part of the quadrangle, and the ancient outbuildings in it have been removed, and fountains and minarets erected in their place.