Saturday, January 11, 2020

By a Boar-track on Lake Hijaneh


By careful steering I reached the spot desired, and was soon made aware of my nearness to it by the tracks of wild boars cut through the reeds as the water shoaled to less than two feet. With necessary caution I went all round the island first, ever ready in an instant to dart out into deeper water, if by misfortune I should come on some sleepy "tusker" who might charge the Rob Roy, smash her to pieces, and leave me helpless on the concealed island. The ground was a few acres in extent, and torn to pieces with innumerable boar ruts, while for 200 yards the massive walls of four strong buildings rose to the height of three or four courses of masonry. I determined not to land in so dangerous a place, but with the full conviction all the time that I must land nevertheless. Very quietly then I punted in along a boar track and stepped ashore, and with pistol and club stole noiselessly into the silent enclosure. I was the only animal then on the island, or the others were very well hid. Indeed I have seen only two wild boars at all in the East, and these certainly were not pleasant-looking, with their enormous heads, yellow tusks, and stiff red bristles erect on their back, fully three inches long. I entered chamber after chamber, always pistol in hand, but all was silent. My boat was so buried in the reeds where she was left that I could not find her again, and for a little time there was a qualm in her captain's bosom, but soon we were once more afloat.
      From observations here and in hunting the wild boar in Egypt, I came to the conclusion that in two feet of water the boar is compelled to swim, and he is then more concerned to retreat than to attack. Slowly paddling round the shores of this lonely isle, I saw deep at the bottom ruined walls and piers as of a bridge, and many large stones squared and cut for unknown purposes by unknown men at a time unknown. From the north angle of it there is a channel of open water straight to the shore, in a direction north-west; this is 200 yards long, twenty yards wide, and with water seven feet deep, so that it was evidently a fortress in old times, cleverly placed, though one may well pity the garrison of such a keep. The channel led to a little Tell, no doubt an outwork once, and busy then with the life of a people long since passed into another world.



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