Now we will ride to the Jewish quarter, and visit Khawaja Lisbona, one of the wealthiest of his wealthy faith; he has the most beautiful house, save one, in Damascus. We shall be received with the greatest hospitality—the whole family will be equally pleased to see us. You will again remark the mean doorways, the narrow, winding passage, perhaps a stable-yard, which precede riches and beauty. Lisbona affects less of this contrast, yet even in his establishment a mean entrance is a shabby outer court, and a second poor doorway masks the beauty which flashes upon the stranger. The house is in the form of a square, and appears to be all as richly ornamented.
A beautiful paved Court stands before us, with large marble fountains and their goldfish, orange and lemon trees, jessamine and other perfumed shrubs, springing from a tesselated pavement, and kept moist by two or three little jets d'eau. Flowering creepers and shrubs are trained about the lattice work, shedding shade and sweets. The apartments open into the court. The Ka'ah, or open alcove, with raised floor and open front, looks on the court; the stone pavement and raised daïs are covered with velvet and gold cushions on three sides. The walls are a mass of mosaics in gold, ebony, and mother-of-pearl, with tiny marble columns and many alto relievos. The reception-room inside is similar, but richer; we shall all sit round a beautiful white marble fountain, whose bubbling is most refreshing in the parched weather.
Isabel Burton. The Inner Life of Syria, Palestine, and the Holy Land 1875
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